Ivano Ghirardini (born 1 May 1953) is a French mountaineer.
Early life
He was born in
Montefiorino in
Emilia-Romagna. He left
Italy with his family in 1954 and was naturalized in 1972.
He attended school in Marseille, earning a Baccalaureate in mathematics. He learned to climb in Château-Arnoux-Saint-Auban and at Sisteron.
North face trilogy
In 1975, he made his first solo winter ascent of the north face of the
Grandes Jorasses via the Shroud (
Le Linceul). In January 1977, he attempted a winter solo ascent of the
Matterhorn, but failed due to a storm. However, he was successful on his second attempt in December of the same year. He soloed the Grandes Jorasses again in January 1978 (the Croz Spur), and then the north face of
Eiger in March 1978, thereby becoming the first mountaineer to solo all three of the "trilogy" (the north faces of the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger) in winter.
K2
He attempted K2 twice in 1979, both times having to give up due to stormy conditions. He made a solo bivouac without oxygen at 8,300m.
Mitre Peak
In 1980, Ghirardini climbed Mitre Peak in the
Karakoram in
Pakistan, again solo. He is the only mountaineer to date to have done so.
Aconcagua
First solo climb of the south wall, in four days, following the French Route-1954 and taking the Messner's variation, reached the summit in January 1981 making this remarkable first.
Reve Ephemere D’Alpiniste, Grandes Jorasses
Ghirardini, 1994, V 5, 6a, A2, 65°, 800m, between pt Margarita and pt Young, ephemeral couloir. The first part was climbed with Slavko Sveticic, then Ghirardini soloed the last section.
New routes
-
Aig.Pierre André, Three super "dirictissimes" on East, North and South Face, all ED.
-
Aiguille de Saussure, "Vacances d'alpinistes", with Joshua Geetter.
-
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Hard route on NE face, ED, with Joshua Geetter.
-
Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Young, "Cristal Palace", a solo ascent.
-
Pointe Durier, Hard new route on SW face, with Franck and Philippe Henry.
Ivano Ghirardini website in French: [1]
Ivano Ghirardini press book: [2]
